Mysterious Mrauk-U, Myanmar

Up in the north of Myanmar, not so far away from Bangladesh border, there is a small city of an intriguing name, Mrauk-U. I hardly knew about its existence when, at the start of my Myanmar adventure, a local guy Soe told me wonders about this hometown of his. For years now Soe has been living with his family in another city in the south of Myanmar, Mawlamyine, where, as he told me, life was a bit easier. Nonetheless, you could tell that, together with his whole family, Soe felt very nostalgic about what they had to leave behind.

That morning, while having a traditional fish soup ”mohinga” for breakfast in his small local restaurant, Soe’s whole family gathered to meet me and, in a way, to convince me that Mrauk-U wasn’t as dangerous as the authorities were suggesting. They were so motivated and persuasive, regardless of their limited English, that I decided then that Mrauk-U would be my most special and final destination to reach. They transmitted so much emotion that I felt I had to go to Mrauk-U, no matter what, and against the official recommendations from the authorities at the border that claimed to better avoid it.

It took me around 20 hours to finally reach Mrauk-U by bus from Bagan, but the journey revealed some more Myanmar’s captivating corners. This long ride led me through many small villages hidden among misty, golden-green mountains so specific for the northern region. It also allowed me to witness the day-to-day hardships of Myanmar men, women and children, as they worked along the road in construction, farming on the fields or selling goods on the dusty streets.

Always struggling to make dead ends meet, but somehow great majority was still cheerful. Still so welcoming and kind in their expression and ways. What’s their secret? Is it hidden in sweat, in loss, in permanent turmoil and uncertainty? And, consequently, in unconditional surrender, in full acceptance of these circumstances as integrative part of life? Whatever it may be, there’s much to learn from Myanmar people.

I was very excited to finally reach the city of Mrauk-U. As I slowly progressed across the country towards it, from all the way down south, I learned many things about it.

Mrauk-U was the capital of the ancient kingdom Arakan (today Rakhine State) that existed between the 15th and the 17th century. The rapid rise, strong influence and sudden decline of the Arakanese kingdom have only recently started to receive the well-deserved attention of various researchers. The kingdom seems to have risen from the Arakanese partnership with Portuguese renegades who tried to overtake the northern shores of the Bay of Bengal in the 1540s. The name ”Arakan” is, actually, considered to stem from the Portuguese interpretation of ”Rakhine” (Araccão) and was, therefore, inserted in many old European maps and historical scripts as ”Aracan”.

Apart from historical traces contained in Arakanese language still in use, new studies will most certainly benefit from rich and abundant archeological sites found scattered all over the Kaladan river valley. More efforts are, however, urgently needed to properly restore and conserve these valuable remains.

Shitthaung Temple is probably the most impressive of the thousands of temples and pagodas left behind the kingdom’s fall. As its name suggests, the temple contains ”800 Buddha images”, decorating the underground maze of long dark passagways and caves. The impressive stonework of this fortress-like shrine also contains other depictions of both Buddhist and Hindu deities, with the Hindu influence particularly notable in rarely-seen erotic sculptures.

Not only does rich cultural heritage make Mrauk-U so appealing, but also its beautiful landscapes. The temple valley at dawn, revealing countless pagodas hiding among green palm trees and white mist, could easily be one of the most unique sceneries to experience.

(Click on each image to enlarge.)

However, for a while now, there has been a rather dark cloud dwelling above this enchanting city. Once a prosperous kingdom, home to many different peoples, Rakhine State is nowadays one of the poorest regions in the country, riven by political, ethnic and religious conflicts. In northern Rakhine State, not so far away from its southern capital Mrauk-U, hundreds of thousands of Rohingya minority are being forced to flee, mainly back to Bangladesh, as the government security forces continue its fierce ethnic cleansing.

However, while talking to the locals, mainly in Yangon where they were more open to discuss the subject, I noticed different attitudes regarding the cause of this refugee crisis. Many of them put aside the religious differences and point out its historical and political background instead.

The fact that Rohingyas are Muslim in a predominately Buddhist country is not as much of an issue as their right to citizenship, that they used to enjoy ever since 1948, when Myanmar got independent from British rule, till 1982, when they were stripped of it by military junta. Rohingyas were then also denied their right to an autonomous area. If these rights are conceded, their autonomy along the border with Bangladesh might come at the expense of Rakhine territory – at least this is what the majority of Myanmar people are afraid of. Due to this fear, that traces all the way back to the World War II, when the first separatist rebellion started and lasted for more than twenty years, more than 600 000 innocent Rohingya people are now suffering.

Unfortunately, considering its complex nature, a problematic blend of religious, political and historical reasons, it’s hardly likely the conflict will end soon.

Rohingyas, unfortunately, aren’t the only minority that has been suppressed in Rakhine State. Many Chin people suffered the homogenization enforced by military junta back in the 1960s. As a result, their long tradition of tattooing women’s faces was prohibited and is now slowly fading away. I’ll be reporting on my experience with Chin people in the next post.

Regardless of the security warnings, upon my last visit to Mrauk-U, in February 2018, I didn’t feel threatened, although the locals seemed more reserved and more careful than elsewhere in Myanmar. There was only one occurrence that perturbed me. Late in the evening, we noticed mobilization of military vehicles with troops.

It was only at that moment, as they slowly passed by us, through a poorly-lit, dusty street, that I perceived dead silence surrounding us. As if everything had ceased to breathe or exist, out of fear of something unspoken that was lurking from the dark. I realized then that violence and death might be away from our sight, but if we stop and listen more carefully, we would notice they are always present. They stay with us, as long as any of us, any human being, is suffering.

Interestingly, as if we were given an opportunity to make amends, the following evening, a majestic total lunar eclipse (also called super blue blood moon) illuminated the dark sky, casting its red-silver light over the silent valley. It was a remarkable event that took us by surprise while contemplating the valley from one of the pagodas, but it was no surprise for the locals – they had been expecting it.

On the treshold of every house candles were lit for protection, adding to the overall solemn and mystical atmosphere. While walking through the quiet streets between modest bamboo houses, you could only hear whispers from the locals talking inside their homes and, surprisingly, children reciting their school material by heart, all at once. This is something I had also noticed elsewhere in Myanmar, but it puzzled me all the same every time.

Due to the violence near the border, its remoteness and difficult access, great majority of tourists steer away from Mrauk-U. Although I do recognize the benefits of tourism for small, isolated communities with less resources, in this case, the absence of it certainly contributes to the city’s quiet, authentic, local feel.

No doubt that the memory of Mrauk-U will stay with me for much longer, always tempting and urging that most sensitive and delicate part of me to return. So, no wonder that, precisely today, when another total lunar eclipse will take place, this tribute to Mrauk-U is ready. Honestly, I didn’t plan it but, in a way, this ”random” circumstance proves to me once again that Mrauk-U has its own mysterious ways to reach hearts.

Make sure to wish something good upon the eclipse :)!